Joy Fang

WHEN traipsing through a place I’m unfamiliar with, my goal is to seek out sights that speak of its rich culture and underlyinghistory.

Every city, no matter how small, has a story to tell and Changhua city in Changhua county – the smallest county in Taiwan – is no exception.

Located at the western side of Taiwan, one can immediately sense the strong influence of religion on the city.

CULTURE GALORE

Buddhist and Taoist temples pepper the place everywhere you turn – tiny ones are nestled in between shophouses, while larger, grander affairs occupy spaces larger than football fields.

This reporter passed by more than four temples, all with their own distinct flavour, while walking from the Changhua Railway Station to the Changhua Confucius temple (No. 30, Kongmen Road, Yongfu Village, Changhua City).

The latter, built in 1726, is Changhua’s most famous shrine and is itself an amazing historical site. This weathered structure, with its fading paint, old doors and quiet sense of neglect, gives off a feeling of true antiquity.

You’re greeted first by a stately red gate with ornate pillars. Inside this time-worn sanctum lies a stone memorial tablet devoted to Confucius.

Two rows of small buildings at its east and west now serve as classrooms for children who wish to learn about Confucius. The battered wooden benches and tables and bare rooms make you feel like you’re in a period drama.

On the other side of the coin is the Bagua Mountain Scenic Area, which boasts the landmark Great Buddha statue that sits atop the 97m-tall Mount Bagua. At 22m tall, it towers impressively over Changhua.

The statue is hollow, and inside, you’ll find a staircase that wends its way up four storeys. Along the way, you’ll see figure carvings posed in scenes which show Buddha’s road to transcendence.

This scenic area is also worthy of exploration. Here, it’s worth taking a hike through trails of lush greenery. Don’t forget to visit the temple and pagoda behind the Buddha statue.

A TASTE OF HISTORY

Along the road up Bagua Mountain, stop by the C-110 Scenic Spot, where a decommissioned C-119 transport aircraft rests. You can board the plane and explore the cabin. Cafes in the area serve as a nice resting place.

Also visit the 1895 Anti-Japanese Martyrs Museum in the park, which displays information and relics from the famous Battle of Baguashan in 1895. Small exhibition halls built from air-raid shelters showcase the tense atmosphere of wartime using
audio-visual aids.

When in Changhua, you’ll also want to visit the historic Changhua Fan-Shaped Depot, located next to the Changhua Train Station (take the underpass from Minsheng Road).

Built in 1922, the rail lines radiate out of the garage like a spoked wheel, and a rotary platform in the centre is used to turn the trains and position them for maintenance.

This depot is the only one of its kind left in Taiwan and now functions as a maintenance depot for diesel and electric trains. There are also old steamtrains in the garage, perfect for a photo opportunity.

GASTRONOMIC EXPLORATIONS

Besides culture, this city is also known for its interesting culinary gems, such as pork rib rice, or the strangely-named miaoshu mian (cat-mouse noodles). The best place to sample these treats is along Chenling Road, where most of the snacks can be
found in small roadside stalls.

For good miaoshu mian, visit Cat-Mouse Noodles eatery (No. 223, Chenling Road) which has been there since 1924. The dish contains mushroom balls, meat balls, shrimp balls and yellow noodles in a thick broth.

Also check out HsiHu Mutton (corner of Jinma Road and Zhangmei Road) which sells delicious mutton hot pot dishes.

This reporter tried the pork rib rice at the famous 50-year-old stall Hei Rou Mian near Mount Bagua (No. 15, Kongmen Road). It’s famed for serving up huge slabs of ribs with rice, but the menu also includes pork trotters and pork ball soup. Can anyone say, “yummy”?

This page is brought to you by the Taiwan Tourism Bureau and Taiwan Visitors Association

HELPDESK
Shrine: 神社 shén shè
Ornate; 装饰华丽的 zhuāng shì huá lì de
Carvings: 雕刻艺术 diāo kè yì shù
Roadside stalls: 街边摊 jiē biān tān