Joy Fang

A VISIT to Taiwan’s numerous Buddhist temples and monasteries is a must for culture vultures. After all, Buddhism is one of the most widespread religions in Taiwan, so to visit a temple is to get an insight into the island’s intricate traditions.

There is no better way to do this than to visit Miaoli County’s beautiful Lion’s Head Mountain – or Shitoushan, in Mandarin – a temple wonderland.

The area is so-named because it has two peaks that resemble the body of a crouching lion from afar.

With 11 antiquated temples, shrines and caves tucked into its hill face, the lush mountain area offers up secrets at every turn.

The area is a leading Buddhist centre in Taiwan, offering a cool and tranquil retreat to both tourists and pilgrims.

To get there, take the Tour Taiwan Bus from Hsinchu Station, which will drop you off at the main carpark and entrance.

my paper tells you what there is to see.

CHUANHUATANG TEMPLE

From the carpark, hike up the stairs to reach this temple. Before that, browse the makeshift stalls – which sell ornaments, wooden walking sticks and materials for prayers – that line the steps.

Chuanhuatang Temple was built in 1900 and the opulent complex is striking up close.

Flanked by two stone lions, it is the largest temple on the mountain. It has extravagant dragon and warrior figurines on its rooftop, and intricate carvings on its pillars.

A large figure of the Jade Emperor resides in the main hall, and a huge foyer outdoors overlooks the surrounding blue mountains and green valleys.

Follow the signs and travel farther on to see an old wornout Daode Gate beside a large fig tree. There, you can take a rest at one of the stalls selling drinks, stinky-tofu fish soup and assorted handicraft (see sidebar) while enjoying a chat with locals.

You can also spot the smaller Sheli Cave and Lingyun Cave, which are small shrines carved into the slopes.

WANGYUE PAVILION

From there, a hike up to this pavilion (translated as Moon Watching Pavilion) perched on the peak of the mountain will take you about two hours.

Standing on the edge of the cliff, with just you and a vast blue open space and strong gusts of wind, you’d truly feel like you’re on the top of the world.

YUANGUANG TEMPLE

This relic is another must-visit, if only because it is the first temple to be constructed in the area in 1894.

It is a popular tourist spot, but has none of the trappings of Chuanhuatang Temple. Instead, humble white-washed walls and a plain exterior greet you, along with pretty trees lining a grey square. The atmosphere is almost zen, and the monks and nuns are friendly.

You can go back to the main carpark and entrance to have lunch. Stalls there sell delicacies such as pig’s blood-and-intestine soup and oyster mee sua.

SHUEILIEN BRIDGE TRAIL AND SHUEILIEN DONG

This trail is located near the Lion’s Head Mountain Scenic Area Visitor Center at the lion’s “tail”. It takes you into a deeply forested area with bridge crossings and views of streams and green pools.

Next, head to Shueilien Dong, the largest natural cave on the mountain.

The famous cave houses a shrine with an idol of the deity Sakyamuni, also known as Gautama Buddha, or the founder of Buddhism.

The highlight of this fascinating shrine, sadly, can be seen only when it rains – water would cascade down the mouth of the cave like a pearly veil, creating a surreal and beautiful sight.

This page is brought to you by the Taiwan Tourism Bureau and Taiwan Visitors Association

HELPDESK
Traditions: 传统 chuán tǒng
Pilgrims: 朝圣者 cháo shèng zhě
Opulent: 华丽 huá lì
Highlight: 最精彩的部分 zuì jīng cǎi de bù fèn